Dijion第戎,昔日勃艮第公國的首府,是歷史悠久且享有豐富建築歷史的城市。它位于著名的Bourgogne 勃艮第葡萄酒區依坡道的入口處,因moutarde芥末、香料麵包成為法國傳奇美食之鄉.
下列是B週末,遊走Bourgogne的影像記錄: 將會陸續介紹此行的美食、品釀與城市遊趣...
Dijion城中心外圍的公園綠地
13世紀的富麗教堂Notre Dame
巴洛克時期遺留下來的貴族級建築樓面,一樓雖改裝成流行服飾店,設計上仍配合得宜不失原來富貴氣息.
市府廣場-雖是週六不辦公的假日,由於舉行公證婚禮及觀光客的好奇,反而擁入不少人潮.
一般歐洲人的婚禮簡潔隆重-B偷拍下市府前等待證婚的新娘新郎及禮車人群
市府廣場前的露天咖啡
鬧區街景一隅-噴水池前的木構建築是Alsace阿爾撒斯(法、德交界)一帶的古樓特色,在緊接其南方的Bourgogne也易零星發現類似建築.
第戎 Dijion 旅遊局中文網站 : http://www.ot-dijon.fr/cn/index.php 這一趟勃艮第行程,品嚐了三家法式餐館(二午餐一晚餐),其中二家列屬於Jeunes Pretaurateurs d'Europe書中.這本屬於中價位的全歐指南,是專門網羅較年青又富有創意的主廚.整體而言食材新鮮、肯嚐試新菜式、服務及用餐環境中上等,較不豪華但也宜人舒適.價格方面通常也不似,"貴族式"三星米其林的餐館那麼高不可攀,是本想享受法式創意菜餚入門的理想參考書籍.(套餐一般午餐比晚餐便宜,週末比較貴.差別在食材用科,質價是相互關連.三星米其林的餐館大致而言沒有這等分別,訂位要事前幾週或幾個月而且不接受團體,不是老爺有錢隨興要吃就吃得到!)
下面介紹的這一家,是此行覺得吃得質、價最合意的餐廳. *Restaurant Stéphane DERBORD 英文網站 - http://www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr/en/index.html 我们約11:45到達餐館,由於尚未到用餐時刻(12點整).侍者先引我们進前廳的沙發上小坐及點喝餐前酒.另外也先送上菜單讓我们流覽及簡單地介紹一下當日的特別套餐.幾分鐘後又為每人送來一碟溫熱的小吃.(很好吃卻忘了拍照)這般貼心的服務,很令我们傾心(當然也沒忘了另加些小費-在歐陸小費已內算不再另加,多給是客人額外的謝意). 餐室一景 當天B選的套餐Menu 63 ? (法文菜名及簡介-落落長別嚇著了...)
Trois Petites Préparations Réalisées au goût du Jour 這是坐上餐位又加送的開胃盤-蚌海鮮、蕃茄醬汁、炸物
Les Escalopes de Foie Gras de Canard Poêlées,Fenouil et Citron Confit à la Coriandre,Caramel au Massalé前菜-煎 (是這一頓套餐中較弱的一道菜,鵝肝嫩但味道不夠,創意沒什精彩)
Le Homard Rôti aux Poivrons Rouges,Pain Perdu aux Epices,Jus Réduit à la Verveine 滷龍蝦 - 這醬汁屬優極,有米其林三星水準味濃而不膩 Le Dos de Bar, Jus Vert aux Anchois,Raviole de Légumes et Emulsion à la Tomate 煎海魚(中文不知叫啥?) 配四色鮮蔬及菇品
Les Fromages Affinés 乳絡 - 愛什味道自已選,當然也可請侍者介紹囉!法國有牛、羊約350種起司,特別以軟起司聞名於世(瑞士多硬的).這一車約30種fromage是比較區域性及較受歡迎的種類
La crème brulée aux carottes de notre maraîcher Arnaud,Carottes caramélisées et glace à l’anis sauvage. (誰來幫我把這甜品名翻成中文?有蘿蔔、八角) Feuille à feuille de chocolat et sorbet framboises, Choco Fondant Araguani 巧克力、紅莓千層糕配紅莓及紅莓鮮醬-入口即化喔!
伴點的"精選綜合甜品"- 兒時的棉花糖、香草核果冰淇林、甜漬蜜核、水果蛋糕 最後喝咖啡、茶還附Les Petits Fours et Chocolats 巧克力、烤品小甜點(忘了拍!) |
more photos? http://album.blog.webs-tv.net/bruhlmeier&folder=617297 |
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*注: 勃艮第=Burgundy英文=Bourgogne法文
法國最享有盛名的酒區一個是Bordeaux,在西邊大西洋岸.另一個是靠東南瑞士邊境的Bourgogne.勃艮第以Chardonnay品種, 釀白酒舉世聞名.(New World Wine=包含美國Napa vally、澳洲、智利、南非也都引進Chardonnay葡萄種用新法來釀造葡萄酒).至於紅酒多以Pinot Noir為主.
勃艮第的酒區不大,土地分割繁細,釀酒技術、歷史淵遠....更富盛名.其中Montrachet產區的多數酒庄的酒價也是貴得"嚇死人". 我们品酒的時候見了同區某一品牌2001年的grand cru(=最頂級)一小瓶350 cc裝的酒竟要價135.-歐元. 平心而言目前自己跟伴還是比較喜歡Bordeaux的紅酒,對Burgundy的白酒雖容易接受,但一瓶750cc裝喝起來還過得去的酒,平均要花約35.-歐元的現年產的產地價格買它,還真不捨 有Montrachet的酒單及價格 http://www.finestwine.com/english/advanced_search.asp?vineyard=Montrachet
我們一行兩對夫妻,雖都愛喝了一點(B算是酒齡較淺喝得最少的),也不得不用理智克制一下.一夜二天的勃艮地行,吃了三家好的法式餐廳,每頓飯都只喝了紅、白各一瓶酒,但付帳單的時候B對這般的酒價還真是心疼(但喝較陳年的波爾多Bordeaux就不會有這樣的感覺).餐廳的酒價一般是wine shop的2~3倍. 文底有英文的勃艮地酒簡介,請自行參考.
Puligny-Montrachet的村莊與葡萄園 Montrachet簡介 - http://www.puligny-montrachet.com/index_uk.html
勃艮地葡萄園區所有主的名牌標示
像住家的入口 簡約又古意?
品酒地窖-在這里可以同時品嚐多家不同釀主、品牌的葡萄酒 (在各國著名的葡萄酒產區 類似這般的酒窖比比皆是 而幾乎每家酒農也都會在酒窖闢室 設置大小不一類似的品酒區)
Burgundy Overview- from WINEANORAK One of the world's classic regions, the home of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but a total minefield for consumers. The heart of Burgundy, known as the Côte d'Or, is a narrow band of gently sloping hillside, encompassing some 60 small appellations. There are four different quality levels: regional (e.g. Bourgogne), village wines (e.g. Mersault, Santenay or Gevrey-Chambertin), premier cru and grand cru. But it is not as simple as this: because of French inheritance laws, vineyards are commonly divided into small plots, each worked by a different grower. To add to the confusion, some growers make their own wine, others sell their grapes to a négociant, and some négociants even have their own vineyard holdings. Because of the extreme variation in vineyard practice and winemaking competence, one vigneron's basic Bourgogne blanc may therefore be better than another's premier cru from a famous vineyard site. This is what is most infuriating about Burgundy: wines from the better vineyards are always expensive, but you may pay a lot of money and still get a poor wine. Pay very little, and you'll certainly end up with a disappointing bottle. The key to success in purchasing Burgundy is therefore knowing who the better producers are. At its best, white Burgundy is the greatest and most long-lived expression of the Chardonnay grape, combining complex smoky, toasty, buttery, nutty and mineralic elements with firm acidity that holds everything together. And Pinot Noir reaches its zenith in red Burgundy, making exotic, perfumed red wines commonly with hints of undergrowth or mushrooms. To the north of the Côte d'Or, lies Chablis, which makes lean, steely white wines of variable quality from the Chardonnay grape. To the south lies the Mâcon region, which is notable for its inexpensive and often good value crisp, lemony white wines, also made from Chardonnay.
Hotel Le Montrachet http://www.le-montrachet.com/uk/index.htm |
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