文/ 寧二(written by Ning Erh)

翻譯/ 劉建伶(Translated by Chien-Ling Liu)

我是在昏昏欲睡的狀態下聽到老馬的歌聲的，那時中巴車正顛簸在從蘭州到康樂的路上。這一路都是黃土丘陵，農曆的六月了，莊稼的綠色仍是偶然才會碰見，整片山都是黃的。一種纏綿又輕快的調子出其不意地從前方飄了過來。歌手正是坐我斜前排，充滿笑容的這個男人。

I heard Ma singing when I made drowsy by the rocking long ride on the bus from Lan-Chou to Kang-Leh. There had been yellow dirt mounds along the whole way. Green crops were rare in this June of the lunar year. All sides of the hill were in yellow. A sentimental but delightful tune surprisingly fluttered in the air. It was from this smiling man who sat in my right front direction.

家在康樂的老馬在新疆打工，這是五年之後他第一次回家。「我們出門人嘛，回家就高興，就唱。」他總是說幾句就哈哈大笑，那麼快樂。我說唱一個吧，琢磨一下，他放開了嗓子：「一晚夕想你著沒注意，蹬爛了被子的裏子」，這個回族漢子唱的是河湟花兒，漂亮的聲音引來了滿車人的注目，這是真正的正在歸途中的出門人的歌。

His home was in Kang-Leh, where he was heading after five years working in Hsin-Chiang. “We voyagers, sing when happily going home.” He always roared with laughter from time to time of saying a few words. I asked him to sing one. He contemplated a while, and sang out loud: “Lost in thinking of you during the whole night, I kicked the hell of the blanket filling.” It is a Hehuang Huaer that this Hui man was singing. His beautiful voice acquired everyone’s attention on the bus. This was a real song that a voyager sang on the way home.

我知道，花兒這種在甘青寧流傳了幾百年的山歌在村莊裏在老人面前是不能唱的。上世紀中期，曾經有在莊子前頭掛羊頭警示路人的，如果在莊子附近唱花兒就罰一頭羊，如今仍有一些地方遵守著這傳統。

As far as I know, in front of village seniors, people cannot sing these long-preserved Huaer in the area of Gan-Su, Ching-Hai and Ning-Shai. In the middle of last century, there was a custom of hanging a goat head at the entrance of the village to warn people to not sing Huaer. If someone violated the custom, he had to devote one goat. Until now, there are still some places following this tradition.

我想邀老馬同去康樂蓮花山浪花兒會，但擔心多年沒有回家的老馬沒有時間，四天后他就得往新疆趕。

I would like to invite Ma to the Huaer Festival at Lotus Mountain in Kang-Leh. However, I was worried that he would not have much time since he only had four days before returning back to Hsin-Chiang. After all, he had left home for so long.

禪定寺的歌聲

Singing at Zen-Ding Temple

在康樂縣汽車站和老馬分手之後，大面積的綠色田野開始出現。中巴車越來越接近蓮花山，這是甘肅最有名的花兒會場，每年六月初一到初六的會期，附近幾個縣的百姓們都會到此浪山敬神漫花兒，對於平日裏不能在村莊人前唱花兒的人們來說，這時的蓮花山會是花兒的海洋。

After the farewell with Ma at the bus stop in Kang-Leh, I started seeing huge green field. The bus was approaching Lotus Mountain. This was the most famous spot of Hauer Festival. From the first to the sixth of June every year, people in the contiguous areas come here to hike in the mountain, worship the gods and sing Huaer. For people who cannot sing Huaer in the villages, at this period of time, Lotus Mountain is the ocean of Huaer.

花兒會六月初一開始，現在是五月二十八，我還要在蓮花山周圍轉一轉。傍晚日落之時，我到了卓尼縣城，一個甘南藏區的藏族縣。

The Huaer Festival would start on the first of June. The day was May 28. I could still hang around near Lotus Mountain. At dusk, I came into the town of Chu-Ni, which is in a Tibetan district of South Gan-Su.

我是在夜色之中靠近座落在半山腰上的禪定寺。這座近800年歷史的藏傳佛教寺廟，傳說是1295年八思巴法王應忽必烈召見前往內地路過卓尼時下令修建的。但文革中禪定寺被夷為平地，幾個被迫還俗的老喇嘛從一頂帳篷開始，在原址上用30年的時間重建了禪定寺。

I was approaching Zen-Ding Temple in the evening. Located on the halfway of the mountain, this Tibetan Buddhist Temple has a history of more than eight-hundred years. It is said it was constructed by Chogyal Phakpa in 1295 when he was on the way to be at the service of Kublai Khan. During the Cultural Revolution, the Temple was demolished. Several old lamas who were forced to return mundane life started building with one tent. By and by, the Temple was reconstructed at the original spot after thirty years.

第二天下午我在大殿前和小喇嘛曬太陽的時候，聽到了花兒。是從一個快樂的畫匠─裴師傅心裏流淌出來的歌聲。花兒在空落的大殿中產生了奇妙的混響，正如這河湟花兒的令名，「三起三落」，哀怨從一聲恍若歎息的引子開始，緊跟著的又是委婉的歡樂。“都是出門人嘛，晚上了到我們住的地方浪來，我們好好兒地唱幾個。”裴師傅和十五位畫匠同行游走在甘南藏區，為這裏的佛寺畫佛像作裝飾。

On the next day afternoon, when I was in the sun with some young lamas at the front of the main shrine, we heard Huaer, sang with all heart by a happy painter, Master Pei. The spacious shrine created a lovely resonance, just as the tune of Hehuang Huaer describes, “three ups, three drops”. The sentiment started by a primer with a ton as if signing, right followed with implicit pleasure. “We are all voyagers! Come to where we live in the evening. We can sing to the most.” Master Pei and fifteen other painters traveled around in the Tibetan district of South Gan-Su for painting the status of Buddha. 

夜晚，這些回族、藏族和漢族的畫匠們個個歌聲驚人。「這一帶的人每年到了這時節誰不想著到蓮花山浪一回啊」，然而他們的汪隊長說今年的蓮花山他們去不了了，禪定寺的活兒等著收工。夜裡，裴師傅以歌聲向我道別。

In the evening, each of these Hui, Tibetan and central Chinese painters’ voice is amazing. “People who live in this area all want to hike at Lotus Mountain in this period of time.” However, Captain Wang said they could not go to Lotus Mountain this year. They had to finish the work at the Temple. At night, Master Pei fared me well with his singing voice.

蓮花山上

At Lotus Mountain

六月初一中午十二點半到達蓮花山下時，各路來的嘈嚷的人群已經聚集在了一起，我和藏族的阿爺阿婆們開始爬山。

When I arrived at the foothill at noon on the first of June, a nice crowd had already gathered. I started climbing the mountain with these Tibetan men and women.

在一段陡坡上，我正埋頭往上爬，阿婆高亢的花兒飄了過來，我愣住了，不知道五十一歲的阿婆李鬧格曼竟然有這樣神奇嘹亮的嗓音，她的歌聲還未結束，另兩位阿婆的和聲加入進來，這是上山的她們在用歌聲向偶遇的下山的老朋友表達問候。她們唱的花兒屬於花兒兩大派別之中的洮岷花兒，和老馬、裴師傅唱的河湟花兒在曲調和格律上差別很大。阿婆們就那樣手握著手唱著，直到她們用歌聲寒暄完諸如身體好不好這樣的問候之後，再用歌聲約好晚上再見好好唱唱時才分開。

When I was heading up on a steep slope, a woman’s voice of singing Huaer was swinging in the air. I stunned. I was not aware that fifty-one-year-old Ms. Leenaugaman had such a wonderful, resonant voice. Two other women corded with her. This was the way they greeted with their old friends who were on the way down the hill. Their tune is called Yiao-Min Huaer, which is very different in melody and formation from Ma and Master Pei’s Hehuang Huaer. These Misses holding hand in hand did not stop singing until finishing greetings and invitations for singing and seeing each other in the evening.

直到晚上7點半我們才下得山來。這趟山浪了六個半小時，下山已經精疲力竭。我甚至不如這些老人們強健，年紀最大的已經72歲了，他拄著拐杖爬上頂峰。

We did not go down the hill until half past seven in the evening. We had been hiking for six and half hours. Everyone was exhausted. I could not compete with these seniors. The oldest of all is seventy-two years old. He climbed up to the peak with his walking stick.

天黑了，很多浪山的人擠在塑膠布搭的簡易帳篷裏，歌聲四處響起。我從來沒有看到五六十歲的老人有這麼多的快樂，歌聲夾雜著笑聲，這是平日裏在家並不唱花兒的老人們在花兒會上的狂歡。

It was dark. Many people who came to hike crowded in the temporary tent. Singing voice was everywhere. I had never seen seniors be so happy. Laughter was intertwined in the singing. It is a festival for these seniors who do not sing Huaer at home in normal days.

應我要求，唱得最好的阿婆李鬧格曼用藏語唱了三首婚禮歌一首哭嫁歌，她說：「哎，這個怎麼能隨便唱呢，再唱我可要哭了」，可隨後卻是笑聲。蓮花山三句體單套花兒的旋律比較簡單，循環往復，但聽了幾個小時，你會認為蓮花山的花兒是最好聽的歌謠。

To my request, the best one, Ms. Leenaugaman, sang three wedding songs and one married-with-tear song in Tibetan. She said: “fie, how can I sing these in casual occasions? I would cry if I continue singing.” However, instead, it followed with laughter. At Lotus Mountain, the melody of three-phrase-form Huaer is simpler. It repeats again and again. If you hear it for a few hours, you would think Huaer at Lotus Mountain is the best folk song.

夜裏12點，和我住在一起的幾位阿爺想回去睡覺，阿婆們用歌聲挽留，這個時刻，真正生活化的歌聲開始了，他們開始唱著歌打情罵俏，哪怕自己的老伴就坐在旁邊。淩晨四點到外面上廁所的時候，我聽到隱約的歌聲仍舊時斷時續。天麻麻亮，我們便都起床了。7點，阿爺阿婆們和我告別，他們一部分步行去附近常爺廟花兒會正紅火的冶力關鎮；另外一些則計畫步行回卓尼的家。

At midnight, some misters who stayed with me wanted to go back to sleep. Misses tried to keep them with their songs. At this moment, the real daily singing started. They started flirting with each other by singing. There is no matter even though their spouses were next to them. When I went to the bathroom outsides at four o’clock in the morning, I could still hear the indistinct singing voice. The sky was getting brighter, we all got up. At seven o’clock, these misters and misses fared me well. Some of them were walking to the neighboring Huaer Festival at Chiang-Yeh Temple. Some of them are going back home in Chu-Ni.

六月初二初三，是浪山的人最多的日子。然而當我在不斷被各種車輛運到蓮花山的人群的縫隙裏，看到阿爺阿婆們的背影緩緩遠去時，我知道我該走了。我所感受到的只是每年有上萬人參加的蓮花山花兒會很小的一個細節，但我確已聽到了最好的歌聲和最純粹的快樂，而花兒已經跟著她們走了。

On the send and the third of June, there were the most many people hiking at Lotus Mountain. However, when I saw these misters and misses leaving away through the coming crowd, I knew I had to go. I felt that even though this Huaer Festival at Lotus Mountain was a small detail, I had already heard of the best singing voice and the purest happiness. Huaer has already gone with them.   

** 中文作者為寧二，〈浪山漫花兒〉，《南風窗》（廣州市：南風窗雜志社）。

***劉建伶為第二屆流浪者之歌音樂節特刊翻譯本文，全文刊登於流浪者之歌音樂節特刊2, Oct. 2007.