九。 冰雪中過聖誕 : 泰灣, 一九九四年十二月二十五日, 永夜
“我們在記憶裡是富足的。 我們戳破了事物外層的虛飾。 我們曾受苦受餓, 卻克服了; 曾經跪倒, 卻牢牢抓住光榮不放, 在整體的大我中更加成長茁壯; 我們曾經目睹上帝的輝煌, 聽到自然啓示的信息。 我們曾經觸及人赤裸裸的靈魂。”
歐尼斯。謝克頓 (Earnest Shackleton)
十。 死亡籠罩大地: 泰灣, 一九九五年一月, 永夜
“我們終將死於孤寂之中, 對此無人能好言相慰; 世間一切浮華皆無助益; 孤零零地 - 一人帶著他心中的神勉力以對。”
拜倫, 《齊爾德。哈洛的朝聖之旅》(Childe Harold's Pilgrimage)
十一。 人類再度現身: 泰灣, 一九九五年二月, 白晝一小時
“我從臥中起身何其快速
如大鴉拍翅一瞬間
我起身
迎向白日
哇--哇
我轉臉離開夜暗
而投目以黎明浮現
須臾間照白天空”
伊努伊特詩歌, 由艾德蒙。卡本特於《愛斯基摩實錄》 (Eskimo Realities) - 書中口述
十二。 黛安娜回家來: 泰灣, 一九九五年三月, 白晝八小時
“愛之而久久不得相見, 其傷害性遠不如持續接近中的苦苦煎熬。”
烏妲(瑪俐。露意絲。迪。拉。咪)
十三。 到北極度假: 泰灣, 一九九五年四月, 白晝十八小時
“恐懼
在渴望寂寞
於友朋聚會中
仍尋求孤獨
啊呀呀
喜悅
於感受夏日
降臨廣大世界
且目迎太陽
如常遇行一如亙古
啊呀呀“
伊努伊特‘啊呀呀’古曲, 克努德。拉斯穆森記錄
十四。 原始的春天: 泰灣, 一九九五年五月, 白晝二十四小時
“草根裡澎湃的生命力透進你的身體, 爬上你的骨頭、骨髓, 直達到你的心裡。 你看見它、 感覺它、 聞到它, 在你每一口呼吸中嚐到它。 你置在春天裡。 你就是春天的一部份, 儘管你也曾經是冬天的一部份。 春天充塞你通體全身內外, 原始而單純。 春天來了, 你知道。”
哈爾。波藍《天高地闊獨立蒼茫》 (Wide and Lonesome)
十五。 回家的路: 泰灣, 一九九五年六月, 白晝二十四小時
“對我的族人來說, 這個國家的每一部分都是神聖的。 每一座山坡、每 一條河谷、每一片平原和每一處樹叢都有我部落的美好回憶或悲傷經驗予以加持。 甚至沿著寧靜莊嚴的海岸, 那些默默仰承豔陽暴曬的石堆, 也戰慄於記憶中的前塵往賞。”
西雅圖酋長, 一八五四年
十六。 回家的路: 在極地探險, 一九九五年八月, 白晝二十四小時
一年一度帶著帳棚獵槍, 我們這些蠻不在乎的白人取道
名為目替阿尼河的水路, 在山谷中打獵
一年一度在目替阿尼河畔他尾隨我們的白人在
《瑪谷》, 瞎眼的老乞丐, 眉毛到下巴全部繃著布
沒有眼睛、沒有鼻子、沒有嘴脣、沒有牙齒, 說話斷斷續續
在入谷處向每個人喃喃說著他的故事, 乞求一點施捨;
一遍又一遍, 這個故事, 結局和開頭一樣:
《別放過那頭走起路來像人的熊!
突如其來、無聲無息的一掌襲來
灼熱的像火焰一般 -- 我便面目全非跌落牠腳下,
在五十年前。》
吉普林(Rudyard Kipling), 《放過大熊》(The Truce of the Bear)
十七。 幸運之神眷顧: 登達斯港, 一九九五年八月, 白晝十八小時
我們不停地探索,
而我們探索到最終,
將抵達當年的出發點,
生平首次得識那個所在。
艾略特, <微微發暈>
尾聲: 天能港, 緬因州, 一九九八年三月,白晝十二小時
所有宗教思想, 即使是最原始的, 都有一個共同點。
即求道的人會有一段時間必須離群索居, 走入蠻荒。
如果他彗根具足, 終有一天將帶著某個信息重返塵世。
這個信息倒不一定來自他當初濳心追尋的神明,
然而即使神明不靈, 他還是會覰見天機或者目睹奧妙,
這般心路歷程無論如何總是值得眾人聆聽深思。
羅倫。艾斯禮《無垠的旅程》 (The Immense Journey)
最後, 不小心瞥到一則翻譯上的不對勁, 想是文化的差異引起的。
Alvah 和 Diana 為了出發日期起了爭議,原文如下,
At the end of a particularly unproductive, discouraging day, Diana said, "I don't feel that we are ready. Perhaps it would be best to wait for next year."
I(Alvah) overreacted. "No one is ever perfectly ready, Diana. You do your best, then you go! Half the world is waiting for some perfect time to start living their lives. No; we said it, we do it. And I don't care a good goddamn what happens after that!"
我(艾爾法)馬上反應過度。“ 從來沒有人能夠完全準備好的。。。。我他媽才不管以後會發生什麼事咧”
......I was angry with Diana for saying exactly what I silently felt. She stomped her foot in frustration. "Damn it, Alvah, I'm afraid, and I have every right to be....I need to feel ready." She was giving back my anger in spades.
......黛安娜挫折地跺了跺腳, “討厭啦, 艾爾法,我很害怕欸, 我有權利感到害怕......."
對艾爾法斬釘截鐵的反應, 黛安娜小女人似的語氣太夢幻。Damn it 是個氣憤的語助詞, 洋婆子黛安娜大手大腳走四海, 回應必直接了當,“媽的,艾爾法,老娘會害怕。我有權利感到害怕......."
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
TEN. Tay Bay, JANUARY, 1995, ZERO HOURS DAYLIGHT
"This solitude should teach us how to die, it hath no flatterers, vanity can us no hollow aid; alone -- man with his God must strive."
-- Lord Byron, Childe Harold's Pilgrimage
ELEVEN. Tay Bay, FEBRUARY, 1995, 1 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" I arise from rest with movements swift
As the beat of the Raven's wings
I arise
To meet the day
Wa-wa.
My face is turned from the dark of night
To gaze at the dawn of day,
Now whitening in the sky."
-- Inuit poem as told by Edmund Carpenter in Eskimo Realities
TWELVE. Tay Bay, MARCH 1995, 8 HOURS DAYLIGHT
"The longest absence is less perilous to love than the terrible trials of incessant proximity."
-- Ouida (Marie Louise De La Ramee)
THIRTEEN. Tay Bay, APRIL 1995, 18 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" There is fear
In the longing for loneliness
When gathered with friends,
And longing to be alone.
Ah ya ya!
There is joy
in feeling the summer
Come to the great world,
And watching the sun
Follow its ancient way.
Ah ya ya! "
-- Ancient Inuit ah ya ya, recorded by Knud Rasmussen
FOURTEEN. Tay Bay, MAY 1995, 24 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" The surge of life at the grass roots penetrates your soles, creeps up through your bones, your marrow, and right into your heart. You see it, you feel it, you smell it, you taste it in every breath you breathe. You partake of Spring. You are a part of it, even as you were a part of winter. Spring is all around you and in you, primal, simple as the plains themselves. Spring is and you know it. "
-- Hal Borland, High, Wide and Lonesome
FIFTEEN. Tay Bay, JUNE 1995, 24 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" Every part of this country is sacred to my people. Every hillside, every valley, every plain and grove has been hallowed by some fond memory, or some sad experience of my tribe. Even the rocks that seem to lie dumb as they swelter in the sun along the silent seashore in solemn grandeur, thrill with memories of events past. "
-- Chief Seattle, 1854
SIXTEEN. Tay Bay, AUGUST 1995, 20 HOURS DAYLIGHT
"Yearly with tent and rifle, our careless white men go
By the Pass called Muttianee, to shoot in the vale below
Yearly by Muttianee he follows our white men in
Matun, the old blind beggar, bandaged from brow to chin
Eyeless, noseless, and lipless -- Toothless, broken of speech
Seeking a dole at the doorway he mumbles his tale to each;
Over and over the story, ending as he began:
'Make ye no truce with Adam-Zad -- the bear that walks like a man!
Sudden, silent, searing as flames the blow -- faceless I fell before his feet,
fifty summers ago.' "
-- Rudyard Kipling, The Truce of the Bear
SEVENTEEN. Dundas Harbor, AUGUST 1995, 18 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time. "
-- T.S. Eliot, "Little Gidding"
EPILOGUE. Tenants Harbor, Maine, March 1998, 12 HOURS DAYLIGHT
" It is a commonplace of all religious thought, even the most primitive, that the man seeking visions and insight must go apart from his fellows and live for a time in the wilderness. If he is of the proper sort, he will return with a message. It may not be a message from the god he set out to seek, but even if he has failed in that particular, always worth listening to and thinking about."
-- Loren Eiseley, The Immense Journey
References:
1 . Knud Rasmussen and Peter Freuchen, two Danish explorers and seekers, found‘最後的未知地.the Last Unknown’(Ultima Thule)and uncertainty.
2. The brave Anglo-Irish captain, Ernest Shackleton, of the ship Endurance, with doomed crew trapped in Antarctic.
3. Arctic extremes demanded of us a new way of thinking -- or perhaps it is a very old way. The igloo (ik-lu) is a marvel of thermal engineering. With an intuitive grasp of thermoclines and draft, the Intuit of old heated the snowdome with a single blubber lamp, yet ventilated it safely. We installed an air-intake system, much like a snorkel , in case the Roger Henry should be covered by snowdrifts.
4. Many early Europeans felt nothing but disdain for the indegenous "savages," finding them difficult and dirty, their foods and customs disgusting. That thinking generally proved fatal as even large and well-provisioned expeditions ground to a halt, floundered, and them perished piecemeal. The most famous example was the two-ship, 129-man Franklin Expedition of 1845. They were in search of the elusive Northwest Passage, a shortcut to the rich trading waters of the Pacific. Amid much fanfare, British naval officer Sir John Franklin and his crew confidently disappeared into the fog and ice of Lancaster Sound, in what is now known as the Eastern Canadian Arctic.
5. In 1853 American Elisha Kent Kane could have safely wintered his ship Advance in the small bay of Etah on the far northwestern coast of Greenland. Ambitious and determined to set the record for the farthest point north, he instead chose to push on. He made meager miles farther to a less suitable winter site, where he was trapped for two years. His ship was eventually crushed and his crew torn apart in the standard cycle of starvation, attempted murder, and mutiny. The lesson for us was that, even today, the limits of prudence and foolhardiness lie within sight of each other in the Arctic.
6. Wilderness, however, is about more than serving your time, punching your ticket, and returning to the Halls of Ivy. Yes, knowledge of the wilderness may be the salvation of it. There is much to learn, and many do an admirable job of amassing this knowledge. But knowledge is not in itself wisdom. In Arctic Dreams, Barry Lopez recounts entering a research cabin that had bunks assigned to a biologist, a geologist, an orthithologist, a paleontologist, and an ichthyologist. He wondered why none had been set aside for a poet or a painter.
7. Above us, a huge black raven circled in an endlessly empty sky. It spiraled down silently. Ravens are clever enough to know that a man standing on the ice is a danger, but one lying on the ice is dinner. Halifax crawled into my parka hood, clearly respecting the danger the large carnivorous bird posed. We remained still as the bird lit on an iceberg just above us. I recalled Steven Young's To the Arctic: "Omnipresent scavengers, predators, and observers of the Arctic environment, the raven is considered the most intelligent of all birds. It figures prominently in the mythology of northern peoples."
The raven is perhaps the Arctic's keenest judge of probable outcome. This lone bird had chosen not to fly south for the winter, and I thought I understood what that meant. I said out loud, "Listen to me, Raven, I'm going to live through this. If it's food you're after, then you better follow that sun south now, because there's no hope for you here. Halifax is smart, and I'm stubborn."
It was now the end of October, and the last minutes of an Arctic day were already waning into perpetual night. Psychologists have done extensive studies concerning the effects of solitude on the human mind. Others have studies the effects of light deprivation, which are profound both psychologically and physically. To combine the two is to invite and unholy terror. Many an Arctic explorer who otherwise thought himself a happy man has turned a gun and scattered his skull to end his Arctic ordeal. Gurus tell us that our heaven is within. So, too, then, must be our hell.
8. Arctic Passage by Dr. John Bockstoce. He had attempted to transit the Northwest Passage in a traditional hide boat called an umiaq.
9. A naval superior wrote of the young Robert Falcon Scott, "He appears to trust to luck what ought to be a matter of precise calculation." Years later, woefully ill trained and ill equipped, Scott marched off toward the South Pole and his infamous death. Scott's last journal entry read, "Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must tell that tale."
10. Roald Amundsen (1872-1928), Norwegian, the first to crack the Northwest Passage in 1903, the first to reach the South Pole in 1912, one month earlier than Scott, flying over Arctic with the flying boat in 1926, disappeared in Arctic Ocean when flying plane in 1928.
11. Dan, Boone (1735-1820), American Explorer, born in Pennsylvania, made the passage through Cumberland Gap, the first man to develop the Kentucky.
12. For the baking of bread, the Joy of Cooking told me to "let dough rise at room temperature for two hours."
13. Exactly a century before my Arctic vigil, Norwegian explorers Fridtjof Nansen and Hjalmar Johnson left their icebound ship Fram drifting in the Arctic Ocean pack ice and made a bold dash for the North Pole. Turned back short of their goal, they were forced to winter on a wilderness island. With a walrus-hide tent, skins to sleep under, blubber to burn, bear meat to eat, and some luck, they had everything they needed to survive. But when asked what they missed most. Nansen replied, "Oh, how we longed for a book." Forwarned is forearmed. Cocooned in my sleeping bag, I began devouring Endurance, Tundra, kabloona, Arctic Dreams, Arctic Grail,....
14. The Last Lion by William Manchester. other superior writers: Pierre Perton, Steven Ambrose, Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr., Michael Caro.
15. William James defined religion as "the feelings, acts, and experiences of individuals in their solitude. "My need for constant talk, action, and adventure indicated my babe-in-arms spiritual immaturity, and immaturity I would gladly have clung to. But now I was left no option but to turn my whole attention inward."
Above all else, mystics prize silence and solitude. From cloistered cells to mountaintop retreats, in isolation they find inspiration. St. Augustine's search for the mystic began with a meditative state he called "the cloud of unknowing." The setting he created to encourage this differed little from mine, except for its temperatures. Mother Teresa laid out what she called "the Simple Path." It has five steps but is bedrocked on the first: "In silence there is prayer, and in prayer, peace." Yet powerful religious institutions have traditionally been in outspoken, flesh-burning disagreement. Priests, parsons, rabbis, and elders sternly warned us that "an idle mind is the Devil's playground." Did they fear that, left to ourselves, we would each naturally find our own God, a God who did not demand obedience to a manmade structure nor contributions to maintain its earthly edifices? In the Far East one finds keener insight into the relationship of time and self. The Buddhist philosophy inverts the Western phrase, "Don't just sit there, do something!" into "Don't just do something, sit there!"
16. History was a living force throughout my Arctic ordeal. I felt such empathy with and connection to the struggles of those before me that, in a sense, they spoke to me, inspired me, and guided my through troubled times. As Chief Seattle said, "The dead are not altogether powerless." I had read so voraciously about the Arctic that I did not have time to cross the equator and research the annals of Antarctic history. If I had, I would have read Admiral Richard Byrd's account of his four months of frozen solitude, aptly entitled Alone. Instead, months after returning from this Arctic year I would sit stunned by similarity as I read my private experiences of depression, paranoia, impaired reasoning, blindness, nausea, heart palpitations, and migraines described in the voice of another. How I now wish that Byrd's chronicle had perched on my bookshelf then.
Alone in his underground hut on the Great Ice Barrier, the physically ill and emotionally shattered Byre wrote: "I don't know what is keeping me down, but I suspect a subtle enemy is the cause of my dark morale." In part, the Admiral discovered that enemy when he passed out in a narrow snow tunnel while running a generator, one he thought was properly vented and safe. He was saved only because he fell to the cold ground beneath the warmer, poisoned air. When he regained consciousness, he crawled inside the hut and slid into his cot in such a collapsed state that he could not feed himself or tend to his fire. Days later, he scratched into his diary that he felt death was imminent. He survived, for his loyal men at the main base risked their lives to rescue him from the outpost, but he was completely dispirited and physically incapacitated. He never regained his vigor. p.204
Alone by Richard Byrd(1888-1957), American Naval explorer and aviator. the first person to fly by airplane over Arctic in 1929, over Antarctic in 1929.
17. The Noose of Laurels by Wally Herbert, the life story of Robert Peary
18. H. W. Tilman, a mountaineer and writer of 8 books.
19. Tierra Del Fuego, groups of island in southernest part of South America.
20. While exploring Antarctica, Australian Douglas Mawson lost his companions. One fell into a crevasse; the other succumbed to toxemia after eating a dog's liver. Mawson struggled through an unbelievable nightmare while trying to reach help. Both starving and freezing to death, he began to regularly strip off all his clothes to expose himself to the sun, in spite of horrendous air temperatures. He later swore this saved his life. He claimed he felt warmed and "fed" -- that, in effect, he had drawn physical nourishment from the sun. Despite experts who dismissed the possibility, Mawson never changed his story. Little else could explain his miraculous survival, chronicled in the thrilling book Mawson's Will.
Mowson's Will by Australian Douglas Mawson. absorb energy from Sun and rescued later.
21. Adrift by Steven Callahan. his own survival story.
22. Last Places: A Journey in the North and an Evening Among the Headhunters
23. The End of Nature and The Age of Missing Information by Bill Mckibben