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香港 - 潮州老店《樂口福》
2005/11/04 13:14:36瀏覽9132|回應7|推薦8

九龍城是相當特殊的老街,其樣貌真是數十年如一日。由於該區沒有地鐵站,所以並未再開發,加上對面舊(啟德)機場已走入歷史,外來客也少了。即使如此,當區卻滿是道地、有特色的小館。每至晚飯、宵夜時分,十分熱鬧,有仕紳貴婦坐著名車前來、有年輕些的駕各色各樣車輛,多到街邊要雙排停車。

樂口福其中一潮州菜老店《樂口福酒家》已於當地侯王道開了近半世紀,就是簡簡單單一家食肆,雖非路邊攤,但與裝潢豪華的那些潮州酒樓完全沒法比,雖名為「酒家」,其實就是間中型館子。以前吃潮州菜多在香港島灣仔附近,九龍城則來過幾次另一攤檔宵夜,此次隨友人一試樂口福。

因為稍後要趕飛機,才傍晚六時便進店,時間太早、與晚餐時段(19:30 ~ 23:00)差太遠,店內僅我們一桌。也因時間早,並不是很餓,所以隨便點幾樣潮州菜邊吃邊聊、殺時間。

凍蟹

台灣難逢夠大的花蟹,即使《潮品集》等店也只是八、九兩小蟹,香港貨源(越、泰、菲等地)充足,選擇多。店家先拿來一隻巨大的、估計逾一斤半,太大了、恐其肉質太老,換上一隻一斤出頭的。味道、肉質、蟹香、膏量都優於台北各店,不過肉仍略老。以凍蟹佐生力(San Miguel)啤酒,過癮。

凍蟹

豉油皇鵝腸

潮州菜鵝類頗常見,各部位都能成為佳餚。鵝腸口感韌脆,除了「鹵水」做法,以豉(醬)油皇炒是最喜歡的烹調方式。此菜味道略鹹,仍適合下酒或佐粥。

欖菜肉碎芥蘭粒

正宗潮州下飯之家常菜,同席點了白粥來配、看來不錯。年輕時只愛吃肉,見到蔬菜便避,近年才開始多吃蔬菜,而且越來越愛,見到粗芥蘭便不停箸猛吃,這道實在入味。

鵝腸 炒芥蘭丁

魚丸魚餃紫菜湯

如此吃吃竟已有些飽,最後來一大碗潮州人擅長的魚丸魚餃紫菜湯,魚丸是不錯、中上水準,魚餃則非常好,魚漿擀打之皮香且有彈性,魚肉餡夠味、料足,是吃過魚餃中上乘之作。如此配料,湯自然鮮美,洒不洒搭配的白胡椒粉都好。

魚丸魚餃紫菜湯

老店,還是有其獨到之處。可惜的是當天沒有時間、食量品嚐更多拿手菜,而且裝潢、洗手間等都已陳舊;有趣的是牆上一如傳統廣東小館貼滿推介菜名,但是一手毛筆行楷寫得還真好,筆鋒流暢、簡直像書法展,相信應是一位執事老先生在寫的,哪裡是年輕人拿支美工 Marker 筆塗塗寫寫能比?

2005‧11(Pictures taken by author)


延伸閱讀:潮州菜潮州菜與《潮品集》

( 休閒生活美食 )
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scubagolfer
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Ha Ha
2005/11/09 12:38

Sunshine : Okay, I'm convinced. Even if you haven't cooked for a while, you must've gone to that market place many times. I'll venture into the old market soon.

Das Reich : 多謝建議濱江市場。



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南門市場
2005/11/08 14:34

Sir SG,

I wish I could draw you a map of "South Gate Market;" however, I believe half of the fun will be in visiting that venue for yourself.

To purchase rare vegetables, simply walk down to B1, and you will see two veggie stands after you walk past the meat row (pork to your left, chicken to your right).  The one to the left is somewhat bigger, managed by a young lady named "阿萬." Her stuff is usually pretty good, and she sometimes carries veggies from China that are essential to making your hometown-flavored dishes.

There are also decent fish vendors down the aisle (two small blocks down, to a cross walk). I also like to purchase some beef balls from a lady that sells beef (southeast corner).  She is very close to the famed dumpling place and opposite a stand that sells freshwater fish/bullfrogs.

Do not worry about parking these days - you can park in the rear of the market building for $50 an hour. There is also a public carpark that has entrance on 南昌路. 

From your place, I'd take Jen-Ai Road all the way downtown, then make a left on Lin-Sen South and into the tunnel.  When you get out of the tunnel, make a left, then make a quick right turn before a 滷肉飯 place (they serve some pretty good stuff too).  Drive around the building, make another right, and you will see parking spaces in the rear. Someone will usher you in.

My trick is to buy some veggies first, then buy more meat/fish and have Miss 阿萬 put them altogether in a big basket.  Then I'd go get my car and ask her or her colleague to move the stuff to the entrance for me.  It's actually pretty nice and easy!

Now, as to your important question...hmmm...I consider myself a pretty decent cook...yet I have done most of my cooking with my lips since moving back here 9 years ago. Haha.



Das Reich
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哦?
2005/11/06 19:18

有沒有試過濱江?

不過要早上八九點去才會東西比較齊全。



scubagolfer
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Sunshine
2005/11/04 18:01

Heh... don't tell me you actually COOK? I'll find time to visit 南門市場 then, haven't been there for ages.

My dad has the funniest way of visting a traditional market - chauffeured to the entrance, a maid who tagged along, all he did was pointing to this & that... "Bag them." Unfortunately, I need to drive there by myself, find a darn parking space & haul all the grocery... that's one of the reasons why I haven't been there for so long.

 



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Sir SG: 南門市場 B1
2005/11/04 17:31

I think that would be your best shot. It's worth a visit anyway!



scubagolfer
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中式蔬菜
2005/11/04 15:32

台灣買不到或難買的中式蔬菜:粗芥蘭、油菜心、正統津白、青(綠)蘿蔔、塌姑菜、中式小白菜(bak-choy)、沙葛、西洋菜...

如果有網友知道何處有售、新鮮質佳,麻煩賜知一下。


捏捏
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懷念香港!
2005/11/04 15:19

自從1997 及機場搬遷之後就再也沒去香港, 大概也變了很多!

每盤菜都看起來很可口, 鵝腸和芥蘭也是捏捏最愛!

在日本買不到芥蘭或菜心這種好吃的蔬菜, 有一次去多倫多找恰恰,

去了個潮州館, 捏捏心想點芥蘭 GAILAN, 結果被恰恰的先生給擋了下來,

他們經常吃不覺得稀罕, 而且得用來待客有點失禮! 讓捏捏大失望!

這回回台到了粵華軒,也是點了一道芥蘭,

現在的年紀,只能是牛吃草, 其他用眼睛吃吃就好!