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2010/10/24 00:10:51瀏覽2413|回應12|推薦67 | |
越南粉(三輪車米粉小館) 這家越南餐館座落在星巴克總部對面。 Pho Cyclo Cafe 翻成中文的意思是三輪車米粉小館。 這個西克婁我四十年前在西貢坐過﹐那時候西貢的交通很擠﹐西克婁反而比計程車便捷。 八月中的西貢﹐坐在西克婁上﹐迎來一陣涼爽的風。 人力三輪車在台灣已經走入交通歷史。我記得中學校長的座車就是三個輪子。平時停放在大禮堂﹐我和好友阿莎都騎過。 不過﹐店裡的西克婁擺飾並非古董﹐車身有很明顯的牌子寫著胡志明市製造。(西貢在越南被北越攻佔後才改名為胡志明市)。它的設計和台灣的三輪車不同﹐台灣的三輪車夫是在前面踩﹐有主導的優勢﹐西克婁的車夫在後面踩﹐乘客有更好的視野﹐不過坐上去雖然風光﹐也有些提心吊膽﹐萬一來個緊急剎車呢? 世界上許多地區還保留了這類的交通工具﹐也有很多城市以馬車﹑三輪車在觀光景點招攬生意。我平生坐過最昂貴的三輪車就是在夏威夷。 啊! 扯遠了。 在西雅圖有很多賣越南粉的餐館﹐生意都不錯。不但東方人喜歡﹐美國客人也多﹐不僅是美食的愛好者﹐還有許多是對越南有特殊感情的人。想想越戰期間有那麼多美國人參戰﹐戰後又有那麼多人想追回某些記憶。我就是屬於這類的有緣人。 這家餐館取名西克婁是因為在越南﹐三輪車夫就是街頭大小消息的耳目。若想知道那兒有好吃好玩的﹐問他們準沒錯。 小館離市區很近﹐而且可以很容易在街邊找到免費停車位﹐價碼也合理﹐內部裝潢簡明寬敞﹐是我們常來午餐的地方。 兩個小孫合吃一客烤豬排串蓋飯﹐我們三個大人都點了牛肉粉。 看似清淡的一碗米粉湯﹐做法卻費時冗長﹐主要是湯頭的製作。有一回聽廣播節目中受訪的大廚們談起這個源自北越家鄉的米粉湯熬製過程﹐才對這一味經典小吃有了認識。原來這個鮮美的牛肉湯是用很多牛骨和牛尾熬煮至少六小時以上﹐最後才澆在米粉和薄片的生牛排肉上。所以﹐越南粉的好與不好﹐就在湯頭是否講究。(我喜歡點那種燒了很久﹐帶牛筋的肉﹐和小孩子吃的不同。) 文末附上望之生畏的食譜﹐僅供消遣。 Pho Original Recipe Yield 6 servings Ingredients 5 pounds beef knuckle, with meat 2 pounds beef oxtail 1 white (daikon) radish, sliced 2 onions, chopped 2 ounces whole star anise pods 1/2 cinnamon stick 2 whole cloves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 slice fresh ginger root 1 tablespoon white sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 1/2 pounds dried flat rice noodles 1/2 pound frozen beef sirloin TOPPINGS: sriracha hot pepper sauce hoisin sauce thinly sliced onion chopped fresh cilantro bean sprouts (mung beans) sweet Thai basil thinly sliced green onion limes, quartered Directions 1.Place the beef knuckle in a very large (9 quart or more) pot. Season with salt, and fill pot with 2 gallons of water. Bring to a boil, and cook for about 2 hours. 2.Skim fat from the surface of the soup, and add the oxtail, radish and onions. Tie the anise pods, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns and ginger in a cheesecloth or place in a spice bag; add to the soup. Stir in sugar, salt and fish sauce. Simmer over medium-low heat for at least 4 more hours (the longer, the better). At the end of cooking, taste, and add salt as needed. Strain broth, and return to the pot to keep at a simmer. Discard spices and bones. Reserve meat from the beef knuckle for other uses if desired. 3.Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Soak the rice noodles in water for about 20 minutes, then cook in boiling water until soft, but not mushy, about 5 minutes. Slice the frozen beef paper thin. The meat must be thin enough to cook instantly. 4.Place some noodles into each bowl, and top with a few raw beef slices. Ladle boiling broth over the beef and noodles in the bowl. Serve with hoisin sauce and sriracha sauce on the side. Set onion, cilantro, bean sprouts, basil, green onions, and lime out at the table for individuals to add toppings to their liking. http://www.phocyclocafe.com/ |
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