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| 2022/07/31 10:49:57瀏覽1479｜回應4｜推薦58 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 這次一個星期的旅行是開車前往從前沒有涉足過的東南方(佛羅里達除外)，分別在北卡、南卡、喬治亞州的德罕、希爾頓頭島、和薩凡納駐足遊覽，我所居住的北維吉尼亞算是南方中的北方，而這幾處所在已經算是南方中的南方了，三處除了德罕位居大學密集的北卡工業三角(Durham, Raleigh, and Chapel Hill form Research Triangle Park/RTP)而看到不少亞洲人面孔的大學生及家長之外，純度假地點希爾頓頭島和薩凡納的亞洲面孔都不多。行前幾個月尋找這幾處的景點發現網上資料稀少，所以對這幾處的吸引力有所懷疑，遊覽過後發現我錯了，我們在德罕的Sarah P. Duke花園只待了半天，所以用半天來評價北卡工業三角是否好玩是不公平的，但是提到僅有一河之隔的希爾頓頭島和薩凡納，我們分別待了三天，可以說一星期左右在這兩處的自助旅行是絕對不會讓人失望的。 由於內容不少，我將旅遊分成德罕/希爾頓頭島和薩凡納兩集介紹。言歸正傳，現在就開始圖遊德罕/希爾頓頭島！ 原來只計畫前往希爾頓頭島和薩凡納，但是考慮到從家中開車到該處要近九小時，如果再塞車可就累了，所以第一天選在中途德罕的莎拉杜克花園遊覽，晚上在到旁邊的教堂丘之旅館住宿。
北卡/德罕-莎拉杜克花園(North Carolina/Durham-Sarah P. Duke Gardens) Location: 420 Anderson Street Durham, NC 27705 吃完港式飲茶午餐，就驅車前往莎拉杜克花園，莎拉杜克花園佔地55英畝，花園是為了紀念莎拉·皮爾森·安吉爾·杜克(Sarah Pearson Angier Duke)，她是瑪麗·杜克·比德爾的母親和杜克大學捐贈者之一班傑明·N·杜克的妻子。花園分為四個區域：歷史核心和梯田(Historic Core and Terraces)、布隆奎斯特原生植物園(H.L Blomquist Garden of Native Plants)、威廉·路易斯·卡爾伯森亞洲植物園 (William Louis Culberson Asiatic Arboretum)和多麗絲杜克中心花園 （Doris Duke Center Gardens)。 這座花園位於杜克大學校地內，免門票，僅收停車費，由於收費機壞掉，所以當日完全免費。不過，由於到後幾小時後下雨，所以當天只去了其中的亞洲植物園。這座佔地18英畝的亞洲植物園以杜克大學教授和前花園總監威廉·路易斯·卡爾伯森(William Louis Culberson)的名字命名，代表了東南亞豐富的花卉多樣性。探索它的小徑會發現花園中許多人的最愛，如日本楓、鳶尾、牡丹和櫻樹等，以及許多不太熟悉但很有趣的植物。亞洲花園的元素 - 石階小徑、石燈籠和石盆以及各種東方建築的大門和橋樑，進一步增強了景觀特色。
為了不讓之後7天的旅行只剩手機可供拍照用，我們迅速到Best Buy買了一台D780，當天惡補使用手冊，以期第二天後能派上用場。 南卡：希爾頓頭島(South Carolina: Hilton Head Island) 這個島以海灘知名，然而，原來的白沙逐漸流失，所以自1990年，地方政府開始了海灘補強計畫，每幾年就將附近海域下的沙挖起來填充到白沙被掏空的地方，由於污泥混入淘沙，所以顏色偏黑，計畫是期望在日光的長期照射下可以把挖出來的沙氧化、軟化。最近一次的填沙是2016年。 值得一提的是，有幾個奇怪的地方：1，沙灘有兩種顏色，黑白兩色，白沙範圍較窄，靠內陸，黑沙範圍很寬廣，靠海邊。2，黑沙區應該有被「壓實」，所以偏硬，硬到上面可以騎腳踏車，而且海浪可及的地方必在硬又寬廣的黑沙區，常常有倒影的效果。而且由於區域寬廣，可以容納眾多的遊客。 Hilton Head Island - Beach Renourishment Program 除此之外，海灘區內陸飯店林立，278公路環繞全島，交通方便，硬體設施齊全，規劃完美，治安良好，東海岸除了佛羅里達之外，我覺得首屈一指就是這個島了(如果沙灘本身不算的話)。 希爾頓頭島-科利尼海灘公園(Coligny beach park) 以非飯店區的公共沙灘而言，位於希爾頓頭島東南的科利尼海灘公園最受歡迎，人潮也最多。這個海灘旁是一個圓環，圓環正對海灘，環右是一處廣大的免費停車場，環左是一個商家林立的一層樓建築群(科利尼廣場購物中心，Coligny Plaza Shopping Center)，與海灘都是步行可到的距離範圍。
除了科利尼海灘公園之外，希爾頓頭島東岸北部還有幾個公立的海灘公園，我們挑了佛利菲爾德海灘公園遊覽。這個海灘的停車場非常小，而且停車按時先付費，我們是星期一來訪，人相對較少，所以空停車位還很多。
晚上在這家骷髏頭溪船屋嘗試低地美食(Low Country Cuisine)，低地美食傳統上指的是南卡羅來納州和喬治亞州海岸低地地區的烹飪，與紐奧良的卡津美食(Cajun Cuisine，融合西非、法國和西班牙風的烹飪)同為南方菜的主要流派。此外，船屋旁賞夕陽則是傍晚前往該處用餐的另一主因。
在這個島上的兩家泰國菜，Ruan Thai Cuisine及Ruan Thai Hut，兩家屬於同一個老闆，都不錯，但是我們更喜歡Ruan Thai Cuisine，感覺比華盛頓DC的泰國菜還好。
港鎮燈塔於1970年完工，是自1800年代初以來建造的第一座私人融資燈塔。綽號“愚蠢的弗雷澤(Frasers Folly)”的查爾斯·弗雷澤(Charles Fraser)是The Sea Pines度假村的富有遠見的開發商。他相信一個獨特的地標以及職業高爾夫錦標賽會引起人們對新興海濱社區的興趣，是故投資興建此燈塔，結果如弗雷澤所預言，如今糖果條紋的六邊形結構燈塔已成為希爾頓頭島的地標。 燈塔高出卡利博格海峽(Calibogue Sound)93英尺，有114級台階。上下台階時的轉折處，可以停下來看看牆上的很多歷史文物和照片。這些遺跡構成了海港鎮燈塔博物館。海港鎮燈塔博物館的一些文物包括內戰時期的照片。還有早在公元前3000 年的文物，以及許多其他展示希爾頓頭島豐富歷史的物品。 登上燈塔頂峰後，您會驚嘆於希爾頓頭島及其周圍水域、沼澤、航道和海港的全景。在您有時間從燈塔的陽台欣賞美麗的景色後，您可以前往“塔頂商店(Shop at the Top)”。這是海港鎮燈塔的官方禮品店，擁有希爾頓頭島的手工水晶紀念品系列。
三個大鈕扣（中間用大“C”表示）是罕見的同盟軍制服鈕扣。較小的鈕扣是聯合海軍制服的一部分。 這些管道是由業主馬克·金(Mark King)從皇家港口的住宅建築項目中挖掘出來的。歷史地圖顯示他的房地產位於聯邦軍(北軍)藥房的後面。在1860年代習慣用粘土煙斗吸煙。這被認為是禮貌地向同伴提供一支煙，讓主人從煙斗柄末端掐斷一點，這樣第二個吸煙者就會有一個“新鮮”的煙斗。因此，在那個時代的歷史挖掘中，常見有煙斗的斷莖(柄)和廢棄的無莖管。 左邊是內戰彈藥的例子。頂部是一個臭名昭著的“葡萄彈”球或裝在大口徑砲彈中的重型鉛彈。一旦球擊中一個物體，它就會爆炸，將這些沉重的鉛球送入毀滅性的半徑。正下方是著名的“迷你球”。最後，標準步兵“三環”子彈從 0.54口徑步槍發射。 在這個展示中還有一個步槍背帶固定裝置，這是對內戰時代的另一個深刻提醒。除非另有說明，否則這些物品都是從位於Honey Horn種植園的沿海探索博物館的大量藏品中藉給燈塔博物館的。
1000 多年前，在一個安靜、溫暖的八月夜晚，耶馬西獵人首領告別了家人，與其他勇士一起划船前往村莊打獵捕魚。他們在外面待了五天五夜。他們取得了巨大的收穫，帶著滿載毛皮、魚和鹿肉的獨木舟回來了，但是當他們靠近卡利博格(Calibogue )露營地時，他們感到大事不妙：樹木倒下，沒有燃燒的營火，也沒有人出來迎接他們。事實上，根本就沒有人。 大風從大水中滾了進來。它向營地投擲岩石和樹木，並帶走沿途的一切。它直接落在了獵人首領的避難所，也就是現在燈塔所在的位置。當旋風移動時，一切都消失了。 遭遇這個可怕的故事後，首領在他的小屋躺下，他拒絕進食或飲水，直到他因悲傷而死去。他的骨頭變成了塵土，並被吹散到樹林。直到燈塔建成之前，他的精神從高松移到了橡樹叢，現在他有時出入海港小鎮的燈火間，希望找到失散的親人，他的精神在寒風中穿行，沉重的心讓他呻吟。據說，在最溫暖、最安靜的八月夜晚，他的感受最深。所以，如果你感覺到一陣清風從高大的海松中吹來，請記住首領，並緬懷這個晚上可能是像旋風帶走他心愛的家人和整個村莊的那個夜晚。 ---------------------------- 看完這個故事，我有一個感想，還好我不是八月去燈塔的，哈哈！
科利尼廣場購物中心(Coligny Plaza Shopping Center) 諾里斯·理查森 (Norris Richardson)於1956年在科利尼廣場購物中心這塊土地上開了希爾頓頭島上的第一家雜貨店，它的第一位顧客是查爾斯·弗雷澤(Charles Fraser，港鎮燈塔/Harbor Town lighthouse的投資創建者)。之後包括希爾頓黑德島的第一家藥房、麵包店、美髮沙龍、服裝店、自助洗衣店、乾洗店、洗車店、冰淇淋店、郵局、自行車租賃、快餐、房地產辦公室等等都在此購物中心落地生根，所以這個購物中心歷史悠久，不在話下。連超級市場「搖擺小豬(Piggly Wiggly)」都早在1969年就已成立。科利尼廣場購物中心就在科利尼海灘公園(Coligny beach park)旁邊。
40 Shelter Cove Lane Suite 180, Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 庇護灣鎮中心也是購物中心，成立於1988年，位於希爾頓頭島東岸中間點，278環形公路旁，離我們住的飯店很近，裡面商家數及人氣雖然不及科利尼廣場購物中心，但是很新、很寬敞、很乾淨，裡面還有一家Kroger超市，我們在那裡補充了水果及瓶裝水，並且讓我們在下大雨時有一個打發時間的好地方。
此處位處希爾頓頭島東部海灘的中央位置，高爾夫球場、沙灘、大形泳池、休閒按摩、餐飲等等應有盡有，由於遠離公立沙灘，遊客相對較少，我們在這度過了愉快的時光。有趣的是，過了278公路往內陸看就是迪士尼島嶼度假村，迪士尼的遊輪也有在此島嶼停泊。
附錄一 南北戰爭時期，南卡羅來納脫離聯邦 11 個月後，希爾頓頭島開始瀕臨戰爭邊緣。 1861 年 11 月 7 日，希爾頓頭島(希島)成為美國軍隊在二戰諾曼底登陸日之前最大的兩棲登陸地點，超過 12,000 名北方聯邦士兵登陸該島。在不到五個小時的時間裡，聯合艦隊佔領了希島東北方的聖飛利浦島的博勒加德堡(Fort Beauregard on St. Philips)和希島的沃克堡(Fort Walker on Hilton Head Island)。此後，希島落入北方聯邦軍隊的手中，迫使島上的家庭撤離他們的莊園。 -------------------------- 附錄二 南北戰爭遺物(燈塔階梯轉折處之歷史看板之一) These Civil War era (1864-66) objects were discovered at various sites on Hilton Head Island. The insignia is a uniform decoration for the Bugle Corps. It is known at least three such Federal Units were assigned to the forts around the island. This is likely from a New Hampshire regiment. The three large buttongs (signified by large C in the center) are rare Confederate Uniform buttons. The smaller buttons were part of Union Navy uniform. The pipes were excavated from a Port Royal home-site construction project by the owner Mark King. Historical maps show his lot lies along the back of the Union Dispensary. It was customary in the 1860s to smoke a clay pipe. It was considered mannerly when offering a smoke to a companion for the owner to snap a bit off the end so the second smoker would have a "fresh" pipe. Thus broken stems and discarded stemless pipes are commonly found in historic digs of that era. On the left are examples of Civil War ammunition. On top is a single ball of infamous "grape shot" or heavy lead projectiles packed inside large caliber cannonballs. Once the ball hit an object, it exploded sending these heavy lead balls in a devastating radius. Just below is the famed "mini ball". Finally, the standard infantry "three ring" bullet fired from a .54 caliber rifle. Also in this display is a rifle strap fixture, another poignant reminder of the Civil War era. Unless otherwise noted these items were loaned to the Lighthouse Museum from the extensive collections of the Coastal Discovery Museum located at Honey Horn Plantation. -------------------------- 附錄三 獵人魂傳說(燈塔階梯轉折處之歷史看板之一) Like most lighthouses there are ghostly tales that are occasionally told about the harbour town light. Some visitors have told tales of hearing a moaning sound inside the lighthouse as you climb to the top. Others have said they feel a blast of cold air surround them, even on the warmest of days of summer, always followed by a moan. It is believed to be the ghost of an ancient Yemassee hunter who climbs the lighthouse in search of his lost family that had once lived right here on this very site. On a still, warm August night over 1000 years ago he said goodbye to his family and paddled off to hunt and fish for the village with the other braves. They stayed away for five days and nights. They had great success and returned with their canoes laden with furs, fish, and venison, but as they neared the campsite on Calibogue they saw that a great chance had come about. Trees were down, there were no fires burning, and no one came out to greet them. In fact, there were no people at all. A great wind had rolled in off the big water. It hurled rocks and trees at the camp and picked up everything in its path. It came directly down on the very point of the leaders shelter, precisely where the lighthouse stands now. When the whirl-wind moved on all was gone. Upon hearing this dreadful tale the leader lay down on the site of his hut. He refused to eat or drink until his heart stopped beating from grief. His bones turned to dust and blew up into the trees. Until the lighthouse was built his spirit moved from the tall pines to the spreading oaks, now he sometimes frequents the harbour town light, hoping to find his lost loved ones, his spirit travels in a circle of cold wind and his heavy heart makes him moan. It is said that during the warmest, stillest August nights he is felt the most. So, if you feel a crisp breeze come through the tall sea pines, remember the leader and wonder if it might be the very night the whirlwind took his beloved family and his entire village. --------------------------- 附錄四，海松種植園(燈塔階梯轉折處之歷史看板之一) The overall sea pines plantation design is remarkably subtle. It is actually a series of distinct neighborhoods coexisting comfortably together. Areas of modest homes blend with areas of condominiums andattached housing, which in turn are located adjacent to areas of larger lots and more substantial residences and signature homes. A mmasterpiece of community lannig, sea pines plantation was designed to enable nearly every residence to take advantage of the natural beauty surrounding it. Homes orient to views of woodlands, ponds, golf courses, the sea marsh, and the open expanse of the atlantic beach. Within its 5000 acres sea pines comfortably hosts shopping, restaurants, a hotel, parks, schools, a riding stable and historic preservation sites. The plan also includes a large nature preserve with bird rookeries, fresh water ponds, trails, wildflower fields and wildlife habitats. This is all the result of a plan that evolved from the simple principle of reverence for the natural resources of the land and a knowledge that human beings do not have to destroy a place in order to build a community. Little details such as minimal night lighting, informal street structure, shared access to the beach, significant tree preservation, and subtle color palettes for homes create a visual harmony that has established the standard for resort and residential development around the world. The very basic idea of placing the living areas on the view side of a home rather than on the street side changed the way entire communities have been designed since the 1960s. Mr. Fraser and his remarkably youthful team of planners and project managers can take a lions share of the credit for the revolution in community planning that sea pines plantation initiated. With all of this being said... Welcome to sea pines plantation! --------------------------- 附錄五 莎拉杜克花園-亞洲植物園之邁爾橋(Meyer Bridge) Named in memory of Dr. Horst Meyer(1926-2016), Fritz London Professor of Physics, who served Duke University for more than 50 years. In 2014, Dr. Meyer received Duke Universitys highest honor, the University Medal. Professor Meyer loved Duke Gardens. During his years at Duke he was undeniably the Gardens most passionate enthusiast and supporter, considering them unique and essential to the University. In the 1970s, he co-led an effort to create an endowment for Duke Gardens. And in the 1990s, at the beginning of a pronounced expansion, he served as a founding member of the Gardens Board of Advisors. He remained on the board for the rest of his life, and his influence on the evolution of the Gardens was profound. Horst will perhaps be most remembered for his involvement with the development of the William Louis Culberson Asiatic Arboretum. This bridge, originally constructed in 1991 and named Ayame bashi, or Iris Bridge, was among the first of many gifts to the Gardens from Horst and his beloved wife, Ruth Mary. Now an iconic feature of the Gardens, the bridge was redesigned and reconstructed in 2018 and named in his memory. |
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