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| 2026/03/18 04:57:46瀏覽533|回應0|推薦28 | |
初訪落雪山 (一)暮春流連 本應炎熱的季節,暮春踏著留戀腳步,遲遲不願離去。遠眺遠方,開普山脈橫跨東北,天際能見雲兒飄落,又是雲起的日子。心中思緒一動,別無他想,逕向落雪山自然保護區(Mt Rochelle Nature Reserve)而去。 穿透雲層,恣意揮灑的陽光,近郊牧場能見羊群低頭昂首,吹過悠閒的風,原野翻騰著滾滾麥浪,不由自主放緩速度,在這人煙稀少的鄉間小路。今日不趕,不趕今日,欲行何方終行何方,應止何處將止何處。 車程莫約一個鐘頭,再次來到法國角(Franschhoek),經過翠綠的葡萄園,銜接翻嶺山路,來到最後一個轉折,轉折處駛入黃土路,黃土路前豎著保護區的告示。落雪山,初次邂逅,邂逅於溫暖的暮春時日,雲兒雖多卻不厚,正午陽光充足,充足但不燙熱。風兒微微,微微吹動這顆嚮往的心。 欲行何方,心之所向;將止何處,心之所向。放任這顆心吧!熱愛自由仰慕自然,體驗自在掌握自主,不假思索的自得自適,喜悅最美。遂捨車踏上旅程,入口處完成登記手續,繳付管理費再添購一張地圖,地圖清楚標示不同路徑所需時間,幾番衡量決定這條路線,主因其名「景觀」(Uitkyk, Outlook)應有可觀之處。 (二)入山凝望 凝望,天寬地廣再次進入眼眸:遠方湛藍的湖泊水庫(Theewaterskloof)與近處翠綠的法國角,一道山脈兩方隔開,而省道43號不斷攀升經過這道山脈,峰迴路轉連結山裡山外,如今窺得全景,開普山水了然於心。 腳下黃土,由大路轉小徑,沿途步道標示清楚,坡度緩緩升高,逕向西北西不斷深入,黃土漸少碎石更多,時而清楚時而無法辨識。無法辨識的時候,心中陣陣忐忑,畢竟初來,路徑對我不熟。腳步,時而輕鬆時而費力;呼吸,時而悠長時而短促,汗水淋漓揮落。 (三)花與心 興起,腳步歌唱登山的喜悅。對流浪的風唱著旅行的歌,幽靜的空山啊,音響震動的一時,終究消逝於寂靜的永恆。寂靜,收拾紛亂的心,轉寂為寧,由寧而安。專注當下,步步向前頻頻回首,用心拍攝眼前風景。花朵縱然枯寂,身後亦有駐足欣賞之機,不禁想像生前風姿。 山中的花,綻放凋零自有時,固然不為誰而開,但眼前的這朵花,確實因我前來而存在啊!「未看此花,此花與心同歸於寂。」今日我來,今日相見,此花遂與我同在,頓時鮮活起來。存在,花與賞花人共同時空不能分割,見花存在當覺心體應在,或許這就是陽明的了悟,也是採菊東籬,淵明的悠然吧!賞花見山,我今亦然,欲辨忘言,飛鳥與還。 行行復行,浮雲飄過山巔,陽光不經意穿透山谷,灑落的瞬間,感受和煦溫馨。那個與花同在的我,不曾踽踽獨行啊!與他陪伴的還有這座山巒,這片天地,這顆滾燙於肺葉的心。行行復行,觀四方,還似武陵人暫遊桃源裏,雖不急著瞥見終點景致,歸山深淺去多時,終達須盡丘壑美的折返處。 凝望許久,許久凝望,凝望眼,綿延山脈來自遠方湖泊,群峰聳立而崖巔孤絕,風雲洶湧隱沒其中,瀉落自由舞動的光芒,山壑石壁在照耀中變化陰晴明暗,盪開這塊與世隔絕的峽谷。返景入深林,復照青苔上,而我佇立其中,空山已見人,不聞人語響。靜默了,空靈高遠,風兒呼嘯有飛鷹遨翔雲天;忘言了,蒼茫壯闊,峽谷連峰有斜陽映照眼前。念及旅居之身,堂上雙親、膝下弟妹猶健,此乃造化之慈。人生萬事難得全,得失榮枯,且隨天命而安。該來則來,應去則去,心平始能坦然。 (四)山中沉思 試算此峰至彼峰之角度為幾弧,三角函數求望山之孤,微積分換算凝視之獨。 層層螺旋的花苞輝映多重光澤,隱藏其中的花兒宇宙啊,深不可測!愈是炙熱,燦爛陽光折射,愈能展現本色。還似顏淵聖哲,貧瘠土壤不改其樂,天候縱不測,迎風皆自得。 近處花內層疊的曲折,遠方山巔綿延的稜線,相似在相似間似曾相識,我凝望著相似在碎形中無盡延展山水,只取一片曼德博集,放入回憶的發散與收斂。 等待還須多久,帝王復活山谷鮮紅?帝王花浴火而生,不啻花中鳳凰。怎不想起摩詰詩?木末芙蓉花,山中發紅萼。澗戶寂無人,紛紛開且落。 行到水窮,坐看雲起;雲起風湧,不得不歸。向山谷訣別歸去,捨來路取他徑下山,登高再望直到消失眼眸,再攀昇百尺轉杜特伊峰(Du Toitskop)沿山崖謹慎而行。雲霧繚繞四周,清新冷冽,腳下路徑隱沒雜草亂石,朦朧渾沌,只得緩緩前進。 (五)捨山回歸 雲兒眷戀山巔,遂留雲兒於峰頂。約兩三百尺則小徑漸明,路亦愈平,幾次迴轉下降,忽見一隅青綠,法國角驀然在前。身後飄落厚重痕跡,幾抹烏雲黯淡了天,頃刻光明乍現,陽光一道衝破雲煙,照亮雙眼。 回到停車處已過六時,趁天色未深,迅速駛離落雪山。歸去了,遠樹帶行客,恰似凝視花朵的心思;孤城當落暉,還如望山的情懷。歸去了,些許欣喜,漸離漸遠;些許惆悵,漸遠漸離。須歸,將歸,復歸,終歸....天命無怨色,人生有素風。 (六)遺緒 歸來整理再相逢。相片聚焦時空,山水顯隱行蹤。且隨風,歸山深淺恍如夢。峰巒幾重,湛藍翠綠浮雲中。
First Visit to Mount Rochelle— First written in 2019, revised and translated into English in 2026 — I. Late Spring LingeringThe season should already have turned hot, yet late spring lingered, reluctant to leave. Looking toward the distance, the Cape mountains stretched across the northeastern horizon—another day of clouds gathering and rising. A quiet impulse stirred. Without further thought, I set out for Mt Rochelle Nature Reserve. Sunlight broke through the clouds and spread freely across the land. In the nearby pastures, sheep lifted and lowered their heads; a leisurely wind moved through fields where grain rolled in long soft waves. On this country road, almost empty of people, I found myself easing the car to a slower pace—without thinking, without needing to. Today, no hurrying. No hurrying today. Whither the heart leads, the feet follow. Where the heart rests, there I stop. After about an hour I arrived again at Franschhoek, passing through the green vineyards and the winding mountain road, until the final turn brought me onto a yellow dirt track marked by the reserves sign. Mount Rochelle—our first meeting. A warm day in late spring; the clouds were many but light, the midday sun bright without being harsh. A gentle breeze, gently stirring this heart that had longed to come. Whither the heart leads—there I go. Where the heart rests—there I stop. Let the heart go where it will. Leaving the car behind, I began the walk. At the entrance I registered, paid the conservation fee, and bought a map marking the various trails and their times. After weighing the options I chose the route called Uitkyk—"Outlook." The name alone suggested something worth seeing. II. Entering the MountainAnd there it was: vastness returning to the eyes. Far away the blue waters of Theewaterskloof Dam; nearer, the green valley of Franschhoek spread quietly below. A single mountain ridge divided the two. Route 43 climbed steadily through the heights, linking the world within the mountains to the world beyond. From this vantage the structure of the Cape landscape became suddenly legible. Underfoot the road narrowed from path to trail. Yellow dust gave way to gravel as the route climbed toward the west-northwest—clear at times, at times nearly lost among stones and grass. Whenever the path disappeared, a small unease rose within me. It was my first time here; the terrain did not yet know me. Steps heavy, then light. Breathing long, then short. Sweat gathered and fell. Gradually the rhythm of walking settled the body, and the slope remained but the struggle eased. III. The Flower and the MindJoy came suddenly, and my steps found a kind of singing. I sang to the wandering wind—but the mountains deep silence swallowed every note, each sound dissolving into the stillness of what has no end. In that silence, the restless mind gathered itself: from silence to tranquillity, from tranquillity to peace. I dwelled in the present, stepping forward yet often turning back, trying to hold the landscape with the heart. Even a withered flower earns a moment of stillness; standing before its faded form, one cannot help imagining what it must have been. Along the path I came upon a flower. Flowers in the mountains bloom and fall according to their own time; they do not open for anyone. And yet—this flower before me existed now because I had come. "Before I looked at this flower, it and my heart both rested in silence." In the moment of seeing, the flower and the one who sees it entered the same world, inseparable. Perhaps this is something of what Wang Yangming understood. Perhaps it is the unhurried ease of Tao Yuanming among his chrysanthemums. Flower and mountain, seen together—and for a moment, words fall away, the birds return, and there is nothing left to explain. Clouds drifted slowly across the ridge. Sunlight slipped through a gap in the valley and warmed the air without announcing itself. In that moment I knew I was not walking alone. With me were the mountains, this wide sky, and the warmth moving quietly through the chest. On I walked, and on—and at last I reached a high point and stood looking across the distance. Mountain ranges stretched outward from the lake far below. Peaks rose sharply; cliff faces stood alone in the wind. Cloud moved quickly through the valleys, and light poured across the rock walls, shifting between brightness and shadow, opening out this canyon set apart from the world. The returning light enters the deep forest, falls again upon the green moss. And I stood within it—the empty mountain had found its person; no voice broke the silence. Still, ethereal, far—wind moving through the heights, a lone eagle turning in the clouds. Wordless, boundless, vast—canyon and peak, the slanting sun before the eyes. My thoughts turned to my life as one living far from home—to my parents, my brothers and sisters, all still well. This, I know, is the mercy of things as they are. Life rarely grants completeness. Gain and loss, rise and fall—one must receive them as they come. Only a calm heart can remain at ease. IV. Contemplation on the MountainI found myself calculating: the angle from this peak to that one, measured in arc. Trigonometry for the solitude of looking at mountains. Calculus for the loneliness of the sustained gaze. Nearby, spiral buds caught the light in layered reflections—a small universe hidden inside each flower, deeper than it appears. The fiercer the sunlight, the more clearly their true nature shows: like the sage Yan Hui, whose joy held firm in barren soil, self-possessed in whatever weather came. The curves folding inside the petals nearby, the ridgelines extending across distant peaks—similar within similar, a resemblance that kept repeating. I looked at this landscape unfolding like a fractal and took from it one small piece of the Mandelbrot set, placing it inside the divergence and convergence of memory. How much longer before the king protea blooms red in the valley? Born from fire, it is not unlike a phoenix among flowers. And then, quietly, a poem by Wang Wei: Hibiscus blossoms at the branch tips, Walking to where the water ends, I sat and watched the clouds rise. When the clouds came and the wind rose, it was time to go. I said farewell to the valley and took a different path down, climbing once more toward Du Toitskop, moving carefully along the cliff edge. Mist wrapped the slopes—cool, clean, close. The trail vanished among grass and scattered stones; I moved forward slowly through the haze. V. Leaving the MountainThe clouds wished to stay at the summit. I left them there. After descending a few hundred metres the path gradually emerged. Rounding a final bend, I saw suddenly a patch of green: the valley of Franschhoek appearing before me as if from nowhere. Behind me dark clouds had gathered, dimming the sky. Then a shaft of sunlight broke through and lit the land. By the time I returned to the car it was past six. Before darkness fell, I drove away from Mount Rochelle. The road home stretched ahead. Distant trees seemed to accompany the traveller; the town below rested in the last of the evening light. A little joy, slowly fading with the distance. I must return. I will return. Returning. Home at last. Let there be no resentment toward fate. Life has its own plain wind. VI. CodaLater, looking again at the photographs—time and space gathered once more. Mountains and water, appearing and receding within the frame. Let them follow the wind. The mountains now seem almost dreamlike: peak beyond peak, blue and green beneath drifting cloud.
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