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| 2009/06/22 06:18:46瀏覽6992｜回應11｜推薦53 | |
上次因介紹Peter Zumthor而翻查更多相關的建築作品Thermal Bath Vals，記得1996年開幕後不久伴即提過要親訪，可是B覺得它地處瑞士阿爾卑斯邊遠的山區有去Grisons滑雪才順道遊覽。從日內瓦開高速公路得繞道北方的蘇黎世；要不是這新萌起的好奇和剛巧B媽來瑞士玩，想順道讓她體驗瑞士風情的溫泉鄉，(這是她第四次訪瑞，大名勝的景區差不多都去過了，傷了腦經才想到可以獻也是“名產”的溫泉）要不這專程單向就要426公里的奔波（走省道穿山的話約350公里，但更費時），還不知會拖多久才有興成行？ A=起點，我們住西邊靠法國的日內瓦湖區；B＝Vals，途經首都伯恩Bern和第一大城蘇黎世Zurich再往東南山區（白線是國界，西與法國為鄰，北與德國為界，南靠義大利，東接奧地利）。 Vals隸屬Canton(瑞士的行政區＝州或省)Grisons，居民只約一千人境內有50座高山峰；早在銅鐵器時期即有人類居住的遺跡，11－12世紀有Romansh人，1300年後開始有使用德語的Walliser移入。1893年啟始利用溫泉營利，1961年開發Valser礦泉水，1970年公用的Thermal Bath溫泉澡堂完工，1994－96再由Zumthor設計新的溫泉中心Thermal Bath。  全村的屋頂均以當地出產的石材（還會閃閃發光，B媽在山上撿了好幾塊小石頭要帶回台灣留紀念）建造，別有另番特色。 村子雖只位於海拔1252公尺，但週遭標高3000公尺以上的Dachberg山區，有個Zerfreila高山湖和Zerfreilahorn與Fanell冰河。另外村公所於1983年收購原由德國商人投資興建的Therme Spa，成立Hotel und Thermal bad AG公司，Vals村政府召集管理團隊全權經營（不像台灣的溫泉區多由私人營業，水資源任由開發和破壞使用零亂，規模和品質很難達到特定的水準）。 Vals原本冬季吸引滑雪人潮，夏天引誘健行的登山客的傳統觀光業；1996年歸功Zumthor傑出的設計，使新完工的Thermal Bath一時聞名泉世界（2年之後Therme即成為瑞士政府保護的建築： "A lesson in courage and aesthetics, a unique archaic bathing and therapy landscape replete with quiet sensuality, a spa such as the has never been seen before。建築界與報章雜誌的宣傳如虎添翼，再配合當地全面有機農作的飲食推廣與發展，目前整個光觀組織已經成為當地居民永續經營下最主要的經濟來源。  內部有大小不同空間變化的水池：Fire Bath水溫42度C，Ice Bath14度C，另有Flower溫水區，Sound Bath，Sweat＋Steam Stone蒸汽浴和日光浴，休憩區及按摩區。  利用當地石材處理牆面，冷調中有一種寧靜的美感  THE THERME:«Mountain, stone, water - building in the stone, building with stone, into the mountain, building out of the mountain, being inside the mountain - how can the implications and the sensuality in the association of these words be interpreted, architecturally? The whole concept was designed by following up these questions; so that it all took form step by step.» Peter Zumthor Thermal Bath：The Felsen-Therme is a rectangular construction with stacked walls of Valser Quartzite quarried only two kilometres from the Therme. 60,000 stone slabs were used in the complex. （以上的英文及圖片取自網路） We visited Therme Vals mainly for Zumthor's work, and as we predicted most people in the bath were rather 50+ or the younger ones were architecture seekers. The bath is fantastic, should try out all the different basins and spend enough time in the out door pool. It was sensational specially at night watching the starts and in the early morning seeing the first sun light penetrate into the spring water. The rest? Whatever I can say, TripAdvisor reviews had said them all: good food friendly service at the Red restaurant - various choice for breakfast (impressive tea selection and great local specialities), dinners were well presented and good price/quality with good selection of wine and reasonable price too. Temporaries rooms have beautiful view of mountains and valley, sleek design furniture, room is functional and comfortable but rather small, specially the long and narrow balcony is not suitable for it's great designer's lounge chair.
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