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| 2008/04/05 18:03:39瀏覽1101｜回應9｜推薦29 | |
做菜的取材很重要﹐例如﹐家主婦都會做紅燒肉﹐把豬肉拿來用醬油燉一燉就是了。但是﹐不同部位的肉質不同﹐做法各異﹐火候快慢﹐做出來的菜就分出高下。 有人做東坡肉是一燉到底﹐有的人是先煮﹑再炸﹑再蒸﹑然後澆醬汁。有的放酒﹑有的加糖色﹑有的加深色醬油﹑有的用白糖﹑有的用冰糖﹐有的用雞骨頭墊底熬煮﹑有的用茶葉燉半小時再換作料蒸…可說是八仙過海﹑各顯神通。 名廚陳力榮說東坡肉的故事﹐把東坡肉歸屬到杭州﹐認為是蘇東坡任杭州太守時﹐創出此味佳餚﹐燒給掘泥築堤的民伕吃的﹐而非「黃州」菜。我想﹐蘇東坡的味覺發展﹐也不是一天兩天的事﹐杭州人把此一味發揚光大﹐成為杭州第一名菜﹐黃州人說是黃州菜﹐也無不可﹐因為﹐東坡肉如今在世界上已是中國第一名菜了。 以蘇東坡的文采及飄零的身世﹐在他的詩文中也能窺知一﹑二。比方： 「竹外桃花兩三枝﹐春江水暖鴨先知。蔞蒿滿地蘆芽短﹐正是河豚欲上時。」 他老人家盤中﹐又豈僅帶皮肥肉而已? 現在說這個東坡肉。 帶皮五花肉一方：美國人說的Pork belly. 培梅食譜裡﹐用的作料有：蔥﹑薑．醬油﹑八角﹑糖﹑酒 陳力榮食譜用的是：蔥﹑醬油﹑紹興酒﹑冰糖﹑雞架子 兩個食譜基本上﹐大火燒開再文火燉三小時。 也有先煮再四面煎脆後﹐用醬料慢燉至酥爛﹑入口即化﹑油而不膩 下面附一個老美寫的食譜﹐也可以笑死蘇東坡。 The dish is named after revered Song Dynasty poet, artist and calligrapher Su Dongpo, who is supposed to have invented, or at least inspired it. The meat should be so tender that you can quite easily pry it away in small pieces with chopsticks. As it is made from a slab of pork belly, there is a lot of fat, but the lengthy cooking time (3-1/2 hours) results in fat sans much of its greasiness. Eat as little of the fat as you choose. The accompanying ginger and plainly cooked broccoli also help offset the fat. You will need at least four hours to make dongpo pork during which time it is simmered twice, braised, sautéd and steamed. Serves 4 Ingredients 1 kg (2.2 lb) piece pork belly 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon tea leaves 4 stalks scallions 7 cm (3") length fresh, young ginger, sliced lengthways into matchstick widths Optional: 300 g (11 oz) broccoli, cut into small florets Sauce Ingredients 1 cup water 8 cloves garlic, lightly crushed 5 slices old ginger (or 7 slices young ginger) 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 4 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons yellow wine (e.g. Shaoxing wine) 1/2 tablespoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons sugar Thickening: 1 teaspoon corn flour, 1 tablespoon water, stirred well before use Method 1. Blanch pork in a pot of boiling water. Throw out water. 2. Put pork back in pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, and simmer for 30 minutes. 3. Heat a wok and add sauce ingredients. Mix well and bring to a boil. Add pork and cook each surface for a few minutes over a medium heat. Remove pork and drain well. Pour remaining sauce into a small saucepan and set aside. 4. Clean and drain wok. Heat vegetable oil to a medium heat. Fry pork on all sides until it is well browned, making sure skin side is a little crispy. 5. Steep tea leaves in hot water for a couple of minutes, remove and set aside. Place pork in pot of water again–topping up water if necessary. Add tea leaves and simmer for 30 minutes. 6. Place scallion stalks on bottom of a steamer. Transfer pork to steamer. Steam for 2 hours, turning pork after 1 hour (because of long steaming time, you may need to replenish steamer water). 7. Add broccoli to steamer for final 5 minutes of cooking time (boil it separately for 3 minutes if there is no room in steamer. 8. Remove pork to a serving dish and arrange broccoli around it. Reheat sauce in saucepan, adding and stirring in thickener. Pour over pork and serve. 9. Garnish with young ginger slivers, which are meant to be eaten. Notes: The leftover simmer water makes a good pork stock. Read more about pork: China, a Nation of Pork Eaters 照片是那日在新店蘇杭吃的一盤。 |
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