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| 2017/12/06 13:36:52瀏覽187｜回應0｜推薦0 | |
| While there are minute differences between the different manufacturers FWA, they are, for the most part, the same. Some click when you adjust them, some have one unarmored cable or two mounting screws, others simply screw in and out. Fiore has the highest rating, however, in my opinion, any one that is on sale or you can acquire easily will do. I'm using a BBK FWA and have no complaints. Now that you know all about the individual components, the next question is where to buy? Well that's really all up to you. You can purchase a complete kit from any of the manufacturers mentioned here; BBK, Steeda, Maximum Motorsports, FRPP, UPR, Fiore, or others, or you can search the classifieds and piece together a kit. The latter is almost certainly cheaper but might not fit into your time contraints. Problems with your kit after installation: The number #1 problem that results after installing a new kit is the cable collapsing or melting. This can result from several causes. First is improper cable routing. After coming out of the firewall, the armored cable sizes needs to be turned around and routed underneath the drivers side motor mount. That's the factory routing. You want the widest "loop" possible, as this will prevent any binding or operation issues. Another cause can be headers melting the cable. This is a problem that can occur with both adjustable and non adjustable cables. It can be caused by not attaching the cable to the strut tower, or not being able to attach the cable to the strut tower. An easy solution to this is to drill a new hole for the bracket that holds the cable away from your headers, or buy an sn95 clutch cable, it's longer and will allow you to route around the headers more easily. Another hot spot that can occur, seeming to be common with MAC longtube headers, is down by the bellhousing. Many people place header wrap on one of more of their primary tubes, and/or a protector over the solar panel wire itself. However, if your cable is contacting a primary then you either need to relocate the header tube, or switch header manufacturers. Wrap will not do anything if there isn't an air gap between the cable and the header. So try to bend the primaries, or cut and re weld in a new path, a different primary. Finally, if you have a heavier clutch and the stock one just isn't cutting it, you try upgrading to the heavier and incredibly durable Hays cable. So to summarize, make sure your quadrant is correctly matched with the type of cable you are using, adjustable cat 5 cables increase the amount of pedal pressure needed due to drag, firewall adjusters are nothing special, so just get one, and then route and properly protect your cable when installing. I've tried to make this as complete as possible, but if you feel that I have given bad information, or if I missed something, please feel free to contact me. http://www.centralplaincable.com/html/en/products/buildingwire/383.html |
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