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聽見Bloomsbury們的笑語, 2006,4
2011/08/18 22:55:52瀏覽586|回應0|推薦0


檢視較大的地圖

在倫敦,非得挪一段時間給Woolf 不可--我們從Russell Sqaure起步,這是曹老2年多前的演講時告知的路線。 


 


坐在原本是私人享受的公園裏,春陽難得地在光禿的栗樹添上暖意,我抬頭看樹後童話般的藍天,看得發怔。 ”Nice weather, isn’t it?”一個騎腳踏車的英國青年也一旁坐下來與我打招呼,在英國惟一一次被「搭訕」,真是拜天氣所賜。看完松鼠與鴿群的嬉戲,午膳後開始步行,朝向Gorden Square與 Tavistock Square。 

Bloomsbury地區擁有當年倫敦最好的住宅廣場,原屬倫敦最有錢的Bedford大公爵宅第包括--Russell Square, Bedford Squar, Bloomsbury Square, Gordon Square, Tavistock Square , Woburn Square,佔倫敦的藝術、醫學、教育重要地位,此地建築包括大英博物館、大英圖書館、倫敦大學、大英醫學協會、皇家戲劇藝術學院等。 


電影『時時刻刻』並沒有刻劃Virginia Woolf人生最意氣風發的時代--她與姐姐似合作、似競爭地,在Gorden與Tavistock招待哥哥Thoby的劍橋大學同學,前後近10年,讓後來稱為Bloomsbury Group的「原始團體」成形。雖然倫敦市把Bloomsbury Group的牌牌掛在50號,但是在英國國家畫像藝廊 (National Portrait Gallery.)中圖像解說,以及我查到的資料,則是以46號為起始、為主。成員中的經濟大師凱因斯John Maynard Keynes(下左) 與美學家Lytton Strachey (下右, 據研究都是雙性戀),也住在一旁。

 


她快樂過嗎?除了留給先生遺書上的令人心碎的一句話”I owe all the happiness of my life to you.” 之外,想不出太多她真正快樂的事。鏡頭裏、畫像中,她永遠保持英國女性拘謹的「面無表情」,使瘦削的臉顯得更長。嚴格講,姐姐Vanessa漂亮活潑得多,更擅於經營男女關係。因為感到幸福與否罷?才讓美麗的姐妹花,一位神采飛揚、一位日益消瘦憔悴。 


對Woolf自發性的同情與同感,恐怕是許多喜好文學女性無法克制的情緒。她以中產階級身份家教下自學,說服一群時代精英坐下來共同交換美學、經濟、社會、政治理念(以及體液…),當然令人豔羨。而文筆中洩露出來的真實內在,毋寧更加動人。她的崩潰--燥鬱症病發,除與母親、妹妹、父親相繼過世有關,學者推斷也可能是被同父異母兄弟George與Gerald長期侵犯所致。然而詭異的是,即便當時醫師認定她無法生活自理,要她離世靜養,她的文筆卻依然精鍊、尖銳,Woolf內在理性與美學世界的寬廣,並不輕易被疾病擊潰。 


Mrs. Dalloway中,可看出作者Woolf對於靜養的恐懼,以及它所意味的孤寂與對智力運作的打擊,表露無遺。家人的好意,成為過重的愛,註定要讓彼此傷心。過往的陰影,使她的愛偏重同性,註定要讓婚姻寂寥。最終的自盡,則是疾病折磨下,殘存理性對於自身尊嚴價值完整性所作的選擇。在那個時代,與其說她被病魔打敗,不如說,她終於選擇了尊榮撤離戰場。 


VW旅程最後,到了「英國國家畫像藝廊」,裏面有Vanessa以及情人Duncan等為Bloomsbury Group成員所作的畫,Ray Strachey拍的像。姐姐筆下的VW面目模糊,『時時刻刻』電影一開始的與姪女嘻玩的鏡頭與衣服,靈感顯然來自1932這張照片。 

   Virignia by Vanessa                     Virginia in Deckchair by Vanessa (1912) 


我想起Gorden Square那排四至五層高度最主要的聚會樓房,一樓的欄杆摸起來其實不像電影中尖銳,以為會讓人穿腸破肚,而是被重重油漆覆蓋的生鐵。 


當時我又抬頭望了一次倫敦的藍天,想不知在哪個窗內,曾經有這位神經纖弱堅強、與生命中不幸奮戰的女子笑聲,短暫閃現,如松鼠穿梭在窗影上的栗樹林頂間。



Bloomsbury Group / J M Keynes connection


Vanessa hung up Julia Margaret Cameron’s photographs of the Great Victorians (Tennyson, Meredith, Browning, Hershel) and of Julia Stephen in the hallway of 46 Gordon Square. Although these original prints have long since left, the ghost of her work, however, lingers on this and the neighbouring buildings. On some nights of the year,  in autumn, they again become visible on the walls, projected during lectures or seminars on photography.


After Vanessa and Clive Bell moved from Bloomsbury to Sussex in 1916, 46 Gordon Square was occupied by the celebrated economist John Maynard Keynes (1883-1946). In 1925 he married the Russian Lydia Lopokova, a prima ballerina in the Diaghilev company. She moved in 1948 to Cambridge, but her housekeeper still lived in the basement flat as late as the early 1970s.


At Keynes's death in 1946, the house was acquired, with many others in the terrace, by the University of London. At some cost to the interiors, houses 42-47 Gordon Square were ruthlessly converted for the use of the new Institute for Computer Studies. Houses 45-47 were leased to Birkbeck College in 1974 and, since then, 46 Gordon Square has housed members of staff and lecture rooms of the College's Department of History of Art and Screen Media.

Gordon Square
檢視較大的地圖 ______________________________________________________ 欲追隨他的一生與作品的腳步, 請見In her steps : http://bloggingwoolf.wordpress.com/in-her-steps/ , Updated: 14 May 2011 【Visit Woolf’s London】: A walk called “Virginia Woolf’s London” is available as a group booking from Secret London Walks and Visits. See Elisa K. Sparks’s map and directions for the Mrs. Dalloway walk. Visit Marilyn Bender’s Web page, Virginia Woolf’s London, for details of London Woolf sites and walks. 22 Hyde Park Gate: Walk from the High Street Kensington tube station to see the outside of the Kensington home where Woolf was born. 24 Hyde Park Gate: Briefly the home of Woolf’s half–sister Stella Duckworth and husband John Waller Hills. 46 Gordon Square: Where Woolf and her siblings moved in 1904 after their father’s death. 29 Fitzroy Square: Where Woolf lived with brother Adrian in 1907 after Vanessa married Clive Bell and the couple took over 46 Gordon Square. This is the only Bloomsbury home that bears a blue plaque with Woolf’s name. 47 Gordon Square: John Maynard Keynes and his wife Lydia Lopokova joined the first floor of this building with #46 to make more room for parties. 50 Gordon Square: Where Clive and Vanessa Bell lived, as did Adrian Stephen and his wife Karin Costelloe. 51 Gordon Square: Where Lytton Strachey lived for a time. Gordon Square: Various members of the Bloomsbury Group lived and worked at various addresses in the square. 52 Tavistock Square: Home of Virginia and Leonard Woolf and the Hogarth Press from 1924 to 1939, when the building was destroyed by German bombs. Site now partially occupied by the Tavistock Hotel. Visit nearby Tavistock Square to view the Virginia Woolf Society of Great Britain’s memorial bust of Virginia Woolf and a statue of Ghandi. Brunswick Square: House is no longer there, but you can see the site. 37 Mecklenburgh Square: The Woolfs’ very last London residence. The house is no longer there, but there are other similar houses still standing. The Graves of Stella Hills and Julia Stephen 【Visit Woolf places outside of London】: Richmond: Marilyn Bender shares detailed information about visiting Richmond, where Virginia and Leonard Woolf lived before settling at 52 Tavistock Square in London in 1924. You can get more details about Hogarth House at this post, “The Woolfs in Richmond, then and now” and discover “Where to go on a night out in Richmond-Upon-Thames, Surrey.” 【Sussex】: Monk’s House: Visit the National Trust Web page to learn more about Monk’s House and Woolf’s writing Lodge in Rodmell, Sussex. When visiting Rodmell, Alice Lowe recommends staying at Deep Thatch Cottage. It’s just a few doors down from Monk’s House, she says, “and the accommodations are charming, comfortable and fully equipped.” You can also read more details about Alice’s adventures in Lewes and get details about other Lewes Bed & Breakfast Accommodations. Charleston Farmhouse: Find out about touring Charleston Farmhouse, known as Bloomsbury in the country. This will be a highlight of your trip. When visiting Sussex, stop in at Berwick Church, decorated by Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant, and Quentin and Angelica Bell. After Sussex sightseeing, you’ll need lunch. The Cricketers’ Arms provides a lovely country setting, along with excellent food. It was one of my favorite stops on our trip. And it’s within walking distance of the church. Take a look at the map. Firle Village, Sussex 【Kent】: Knole: Vita Sackville-West’s family home, Knole, is located in Cranbrook, Kent. Sissinghurst: Also in Kent, the home of Vita and her husband Harold Nicholson from 1930 on, Sissinghurst Castle Garden should not be missed. Get instructions for taking the Sissinghurst walk. Take the interactive Sissinghurst tour. Cornwall: In St. Ives, Cornwall, where the Stephen family spent their summers until Virginia was 12 years old, you will find the family’s summer home, Talland House, and see Godrevy Lighthouse, featured in To the Lighthouse. See the map. Get information about accommodations. 【Cornwall】: Advice from Katherine Hill-Miller: “But while you’re in St. Ives, be sure to take the walk to Tren Crom, which Virginia made many times with father and family. You can find the route in my book From the Lighthouse to Monk’s House: A Guide to Virginia Woolf’s Literary Landscapes (Duckworth, 2001). The best place to begin is at the Badger Inn, where Virginia spent Christmas in 1909. (It was then known as the Lelant Hotel.) The round trip will take several hours, but it’s worth it. Have fun!” Note: The Badger Inn is three miles from St. Ives. YouTube video of St. Ives To Carbis Bay Circular Day Hiking More on Virginia Woolf’s holiday homes in the country
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